All you need is love...and The Beatles

I have finally made the ultimate pop pilgrimage. I spent the weekend in Liverpool paying homage to the Beatles. It was like going on a second honeymoon and falling in love all over again. Being there on the streets that they walked, seeing the things they must have seen, dancing in the Cavern Club – it was all kind of surreal. I have loved them for so long that I kind of forgot why. It’s natural – of course you love the Beatles. But when I was there reading all their history, and imagining what it was like, I began to appreciate their upbeat naivety anew.

Their early music was cheerful and positive and hopeful in such an un-self conscious way, totally unspoiled and pure. It’s strange to try and comprehend how ordinary they were in so many ways, and how extraordinary as well. Walking past their modest homes, seeing Strawberry Fields, and Penny Lane, you desperately look for the key to what set these men apart from their contemporaries…where their sparks of genius came from. But at the end of the day Penny Lane is just a road sign, Strawberry Fields just another wooded area, and the Cavern one of thousands of clubs just like it. Like putting on John’s glasses on - It’s no use, unless you have his eyes. They saw everything differently, and the only way to appreciate that is through their music, where they try to show us what they see.

I find this sort of tourism strange – trying to recapture an age, or walk in someone’s shoes. A life is intangible – you can’t measure it or recreate it. However, Liverpool is very proud of being the birthplace of the Beatles, as proud as the Beatles were to have come from there. 60 000 people visit Liverpool every year in search of the Beatles story. And Liverpool caters to it. But in the understated English way - this is no Graceland. The Cavern club has been restored to its former glory (meaning very little glory – unplastered brick tunnels, merely adorned with photos of the hundreds of acts that have played there, including many of the fab four). Unfortunately it now appears to be frequented by dress wearing stags and tiara totting hens, in various stages of uproar and disarray. However, the club has a very good house band called The Cavemen, who regularly trot out Beatles tunes (much to the endless horror of the staff I’m sure) and with the familiar melodies ringing through my head I couldn’t help but tingle at the thought that this was were it had all started.

Opposite the Cavern club Mathews Street displays a primitive and odd shrine to the ‘Four Boys Who Shook the World’. Mary holding three angels representing the Beatles (the fourth babe, representing Paul, went missing years ago but was recently returned anonymously, by someone who called it a childish prank – it is yet to be returned to the monument.) The memorial is oddly organic, and after the assassination of John Lennon another cherubic figure was added which carries a guitar and is surrounded by a halo with the words, "Lennon Lives".

Further into Cavern Quarter sits dear Eleanor Rigby, a solitary figure on a bench, dedicated eternally to all the lonely people. Her face, which must still be kept ‘in a jar by the door’, is shapeless. She was a labour of love by the sculptor Tommy Steele, who placed a number of objects inside the figure, "so she would be full of magical properties". They were an adventure book (for excitement), a page from the bible (for spiritual guidance), a clover leaf (for good luck), a pair of football boots (for action) and a sonnet (for love).

Feeling in a particularly reflective mood, the trip was tinged with a certain melancholy. The Beatles were ‘just a pop band’ but there is no doubt that they changed the world. Their messages, their style, their causes, still ring as true today. It seems so sad that they are no more. The loss of John Lennon, such a profoundly different pioneer, I felt all over again. To lose him to violence seemed an intolerable cruelty. To lose anyone to violence is intolerable. As our train chugged out of the city I couldn't help hoping that we might all Give Peace a Chance.